Setting the Table: The Transforming Power of Hospitality in Business by Danny Meyer (HarperCollins, 2006)
Part memoir, part management guide, Danny Meyer’s latest book is an interesting read for anyone who views their job as being in the hospitality business. Meyer is the founder and CEO of
Union Square Hospitality Group. The first Manhattan restaurant, founded when he was only 27, has grown to eleven unique restaurants in New York. For managers, or would-be managers, there is much to learn from Meyer’s frank style and open admission of lessons learned from past mistakes.
The book is organized in roughly chronological order, taking you through Meyer’s career and life as he builds one restaurant, then another. The structure of the book helps you see how the manager Meyer came to be, building on old mistakes, taking risks when appropriate, and clarifying his vision along the way. Meyer is an excellent writer, and the book is a pleasure to read.
He begins by saying that “hospitality is present when something happens
for you. It is absent when something happens
to you. Those two simple prepositions—
for and
to—express it all.” He describes hospitality as a dialogue, showing the customer that you are on their side. From early on, he worked hard to hire people who shared his passion for hospitality, not just people who were technically proficient.
Meyer’s active hosting (which he calls “athletic hospitality”) involves connecting customers with each other, introducing compatible people or seating them near each other, and making sure that notes were kept on customers every time they came. He’s convinced that he built a following by creating a warm hospitable atmosphere that makes people feel connected.
Meyer’s restaurants are all different, built over a twenty-year span in various neighborhoods using unique inspirations for each. His team takes inspiration and lets it lead to something new. Why can’t we have a burgers-and-shakes drive-in in New York City?

This approach could be applied to any business, and Meyer offers five points for evaluating a possible business venture: it inspires passion; offers challenge, satisfaction, and pleasure; presents meaningful opportunities for professional growth; adds something fresh to its context (e.g. redefining Indian food); and provides sufficient potential returns for the financial risk involved. It sounds to me as if he has a strong handle on how to create authenticity, and that’s what rings true for customers.
The chapter about staffing, called “The 51% Solution” is a wonderful primer on how to hire, train, and inspire staff members. He gives some specific advice on how to interview, test, and train staff members, and how a “gut check” helps you confirm whether you are hiring right.
Meyer covers his leadership style in the chapter, “Constant, Gentle Pressure.” If the leadership isn’t constant, people won’t believe he means it. If it’s too forceful, he pushes too hard and people get demoralized. The pressure is required to keep the business growing and moving forward. It’s inspiring to read about a leader who has thought through his style so clearly and can articulate it for others to emulate. He also describes key attributes for his managers, which include an infectious attitude, self-awareness, and a sense of abundance.
I especially appreciated Meyer’s chapter on “mistakes well handled.” Regardless of the type of business you run, his approach to addressing mistakes is right on target. Meyer suggests a five-step approach: paying enough attention to know that a mistake was made, fully acknowledging it, saying you’re sorry, taking immediate action, and then offering something free in addition. In this way, nearly any mistake can be turned into a wonderful word-of-mouth story that increases customer loyalty.
The final chapter documents his company’s move into food service, as they design, build, and open all three restaurants at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. It’s a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at museum food service, and will be of interest to anyone in management at a cultural institution.
This was a thoroughly enjoyable and entertaining read, and I’ll look forward to checking out Meyer’s two cookbooks as well. Whether you simply love food and restaurants, are running a food-service operation, or want to be a better manager, there’s something for everyone in this book. Click here to see
Setting the Table
on Amazon.com.
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